The Skinny -- Star Costume Jewelry

Thermo plastic clip earrings, sold.

I was hoping that my first Skinny post in forever would be sort of like my post on Van Dell vintage jewelry (see it here). We have thousands of views on that post, and comments that it has really helped people who were trying to learn more about the company.  

Well, unfortunately, it's not going to work out how I wanted it to.  Grrr!

I have wanted to post on Star costume jewelry for some time now.  We are always looking for good, signed vintage costume jewelry for our shops because it always sells.  Vintage costume jewelry is just so much fun -- to find and collect.  Designers did and can take so many risks with the designs of costume jewelry that they just can't do with fine jewelry.  Star is a name that we don't find often, not like Coro or Sarah Coventry, but we've unearthed a piece or three in our travels.  I knew that information was hard to find about this company, but I didn't realize exactly how hard until I started looking for anything about them.  

Brooch and earrings, available from JewelryQuestDesign on Etsy, here.

So this post will be image heavy, because the written info I have gathered is about, hmmm...a paragraph long?  Hey, they say a picture is worth a thousand words...

Green bead necklace from Vintage Heart Strings on Etsy, here.

OK, let's talk about what I found.  First theory: the Star Jewelry Company was in business from the 1940s through the 1960s.  I found two sources that confirm that (www.collectiblejewels.com and www.amazingadornments.com).  One source says they were based in Houston, Texas.  The jewelry is good (not great) quality, and the company seemed to specialize in thermoplastic and rhinestone jewelry.  From the images I've seen, they did a lot of natural designs, with flowers, leaves, and vines. 

From Collectible Jewels, here.

Now, theory two doesn't seem very likely, but I'm posting it for your information. On www.jacksonjewels.com, they say that Star and Staret jewelry were both made by the Star Novelty Company in Chicago.  I could paraphrase, but it's easier to just quote them.  Here's what they say:

  "The company began making costume jewelry marked: "STAR" in 1925-1940. The company changed its name to Staret in the 1940s. Staret jewelry pieces are known for their exuberant design and exceptional use of enameling and high quality rhinestones. The style and sometimes excessively showy shapes of costume jewelry stamped Staret, recalls to mind, the more famous jewels of Eisenberg & Sons but does not have the Eisenberg quality. Novelty jewelry was also designed and made by the company. Overall, the quality of Staret designs is good quality with good quality stones with some pieces being exceptional with better quality of workmanship and design. Mark: "STAR", "STARET". The company ceased operations in 1947."

I say this doesn't seem likely, because the pieces I have seen marked Star are not pieces from 1925-1940.  No way.  They are 1950s and 60s, definitely, in design and construction.  Also, Staret pieces look NOTHING like Star pieces.  No similarity at all.  The people over at www.amazingadornments.com don't buy this theory either.

Here's a bracelet we have in our Etsy shop, here, and its mark: 

And here's a rhinestone necklace on Etsy from Ginger's Little Gems, here.  It has a string tag attached.

 

 

So that's all I got!  Told you it wasn't much -- but hope it can help you a little.  Here's a few more photos for reference.

Found on Ebay.

A different piece from WhyWeLoveThePast on Etsy, here.

Clip earrings from our shop, here.

The Skinny: Suzanne Belperron

Suzanne Belperron

The premiere female jewelry designer in the 1930s and 1940s, Suzanne Belperron influenced the evolution of fine jewelry for decades afterward. She was trained as the frenzy of Art Deco hit, but bucked the trend by designing more streamlined, rounded, nature-inspired pieces.

Belperron ruby and sapphire brooch

Belperron ivory, coral, & gold brooch, 1932-1955

Simultaneously bold and restrained, Belperron refused to sign any of her pieces, instead insisting, "My style is my signature." This makes it very difficult to identify many of her pieces today, although it certainly helps that many of her clients were royalty or celebrities, and I'm sure that in many cases, traceable names ease the way for research on the provenance of certain items. Fred Astaire, Gary Cooper, Josephine Baker, Christian Dior, Nina Ricci, Elsa Schiaparelli, Jeanne Lanvin, and Collette counted themselves among her very exclusive circle of clients and friends.

Belperron Gold and Diamond swirl brooch

In 1932, she was hired to work for Bernard Herz at his Paris studio, where she developed a reputation for elegantly carved stones to be paired with precious or semiprecious stones in flora and fauna-based designs such as flowers, fruits, or aquatic creatures. Many of her designs drew inspiration from world cultures, and critics of her jewelry called the pieces "brilliant and barbaric."

Belperron African Mask brooch, 1940-1950

She famously started the trend of pairing precious stones with unconventional settings, such as rock crystal or smoky quartz, a technique that other artists had not yet explored. Other favorite materials included chalcedony, agate, onyx, enameled metal, and glass.

Belperron smoky quartz, platinum, and diamond cuff, 1933

Blue Chalcedony Belperron suite for the Duchess of Windsor

Belperron Blue Agate clip with rubies, sapphires, emeralds

Belperron Chalcedony and Sapphire clip, 1930

Belperron's personal collection: Enameled silver and carved green glass cuff/necklace, 1936

Belperron carved onyx and diamond ring, 1947

When the Nazis came to Paris, Herz was arrested for running a Jewish-named company. Making use of connections with wealthy, loyal clients, Suzanne was able to gain his freedom. She then renamed the company under her own name. However, in 1942, Suzanne and Herz were both arrested after a letter accused them of running the business as a front for a Jewish company. During the drive to the Gestapo offices, she ate Bernard's address book, one page at a time, so that the Germans had no names to use in their interrogation. After providing documentation of her family's heritage and religion, Suzanne was released. Herz ended up at Auschwitz, and did not survive the war.

Belperron diamond & sapphire bangle, sold for $171,575.00 at a Christie's auction in 2012

Belperron diamond and platinum cuff

Belperron ruby and diamond necklace, sold for $340,552.00 at a Christie's auction in 2010

Despite the difficulties in Nazi-dominated Paris, Belperron continued to work, refusing more than a dozen job offers from American jewelry houses in order to keep the Belperron company alive. She joined the French Resistance, and was later decorated as a Knight of the Legion of Honor. Herz's son, Jean, returned from time spent as a prisoner of war and signed on as Suzanne's partner, renaming the business after both of them, and remaining her partner until they parted ways (on very friendly terms) in the 1970s.

Belperron Sapphire set

Suzanne Belperron was elusive, and therefore, the best catch in Paris for those in need of fine jewelry. She did not advertise. There were no fliers on shop windows or ads in the newspaper. Instead, her address was only given out by word of mouth, from one exclusive client to another.

Belperron diamond brooch

When designing for a woman, Belperron not only took multiple, precise measurements, she made notes about the woman's skin tone, the shape of her face, and her lifestyle. There would be several fittings, just as with a seamstress, to ensure that each custom piece was a perfect fit, in every way, for the woman who would wear it.

Belperron diamond brooch

Long after Belperron's death, an apartment was discovered near Montmartre that contained her furniture and books, but most importantly, her archives--including photos, news articles, sketches, models, casts, letters, diaries, and appointments and orders from the late 1930s until the company dissolved in 1974.What a time capsule!

Belperron diamond and sapphire cocktail ring

And yes, the matching earrings; Sold at Christie's for $110,023.00 in 2013

On the Radar -- The Word Necklace

So we've all seen the classic name necklace, made famous again in more recent times by the beloved icon, Carrie Bradshaw, played by SJP.  What would Carrie be without her "Carrie" necklace?

This idea was taken about a gazillion steps further in Lanvin's Fall 2013 show, with their line of wordy statement necklaces.  They used words like "happy" and "cool" in a script font, and scaled the proportions way up. I really like the look:

 

Is this cool?  Yes.  Is this a new idea?  Not really.  Look at this Chanel necklace from 1994:

There are some options if you don't want something quite so large, like this sweet necklace from Dior, in white gold with a diamond:

Or if Dior is out of your price bracket (or on another price planet, as it is in my case), there's tons of reasonably priced options from the handmade side of Etsy, like this sweet "happy" necklace from Piano Bench Designs, available here.

On the Radar -- The Mighty...Acorn?

By now I shouldn't have to remind you -- we love Alexander McQueen.  So in looking at his Pre-Fall 2013 collection, we both fell in love with this particular necklace:

Very simple.  A gold acorn on a long chain.  Classic, easy to wear.  $560.

Yeah.  I'll start saving for that while I look around Etsy.

So, here's the first two...we'll say McQueen inspired...necklaces I found:

Available here from Gwen Delicious on Etsy.

Available here from Pinking Edge Designs on Etsy.

And then I thought, "Are there more acorn things out there right now?"  And the answer -- well take a look:

Yoko Ono's new art book

Acorn Pendant Lights from Maija Puoskari, Milan Design Week 2013

Even fonts can be inspired by acorns!

The answer would be yes, then.  There is something nutty going around.  Ah, the mighty acorn...

On the Radar -- Woodn't You Like to Have One?

Lanvin Necklace

We both of us, the Blackbird girls, each have a different ring that is a security blanket of sorts.  Mine is a silver ring that is fashioned with working hinged jaws accented with long, monster-like teeth.  I got it when a local jewelry store was going out of business for $7.  Someone offered me $50 for it once -- but I would never sell it.  Never.

Jewelry design is where, I think, designers get to let loose and have some fun.  Clothes can be amazing, but the moment you meet that certain necklace, that special ring -- that's the moment of total magic.  Accessories and jewelry are fun, easy to change around, and can be as delicate or as bold as you want them to be.  But jewelry can be sentimental, special, and family heirlooms, even if they are not that valuable.


I'm loving that designers went for wood in their designs this season.  Lanvin made stunning paneled cuff bracelets and necklaces.

Lanvin cuff bracelet

Marni also did a collection of wooden bug like pieces.

This minaudiere by Givenchy is STUNNING!

Even our First Lady Michelle Obama wears wooden jewelry, like this bangle made for her by Kara Ross.

Wood is an interesting material for jewelry, and it's something I've just started noticing.  I have lots of vintage rhinestone and enamel pieces, but I don't have any wooden pieces.  Might have to change that!  Look at these vintage pieces, available on Etsy:

1970s cocktail ring, available here.

1950s brooch, available here.