The Skinny: Suzanne Belperron

Suzanne Belperron

The premiere female jewelry designer in the 1930s and 1940s, Suzanne Belperron influenced the evolution of fine jewelry for decades afterward. She was trained as the frenzy of Art Deco hit, but bucked the trend by designing more streamlined, rounded, nature-inspired pieces.

Belperron ruby and sapphire brooch

Belperron ivory, coral, & gold brooch, 1932-1955

Simultaneously bold and restrained, Belperron refused to sign any of her pieces, instead insisting, "My style is my signature." This makes it very difficult to identify many of her pieces today, although it certainly helps that many of her clients were royalty or celebrities, and I'm sure that in many cases, traceable names ease the way for research on the provenance of certain items. Fred Astaire, Gary Cooper, Josephine Baker, Christian Dior, Nina Ricci, Elsa Schiaparelli, Jeanne Lanvin, and Collette counted themselves among her very exclusive circle of clients and friends.

Belperron Gold and Diamond swirl brooch

In 1932, she was hired to work for Bernard Herz at his Paris studio, where she developed a reputation for elegantly carved stones to be paired with precious or semiprecious stones in flora and fauna-based designs such as flowers, fruits, or aquatic creatures. Many of her designs drew inspiration from world cultures, and critics of her jewelry called the pieces "brilliant and barbaric."

Belperron African Mask brooch, 1940-1950

She famously started the trend of pairing precious stones with unconventional settings, such as rock crystal or smoky quartz, a technique that other artists had not yet explored. Other favorite materials included chalcedony, agate, onyx, enameled metal, and glass.

Belperron smoky quartz, platinum, and diamond cuff, 1933

Blue Chalcedony Belperron suite for the Duchess of Windsor

Belperron Blue Agate clip with rubies, sapphires, emeralds

Belperron Chalcedony and Sapphire clip, 1930

Belperron's personal collection: Enameled silver and carved green glass cuff/necklace, 1936

Belperron carved onyx and diamond ring, 1947

When the Nazis came to Paris, Herz was arrested for running a Jewish-named company. Making use of connections with wealthy, loyal clients, Suzanne was able to gain his freedom. She then renamed the company under her own name. However, in 1942, Suzanne and Herz were both arrested after a letter accused them of running the business as a front for a Jewish company. During the drive to the Gestapo offices, she ate Bernard's address book, one page at a time, so that the Germans had no names to use in their interrogation. After providing documentation of her family's heritage and religion, Suzanne was released. Herz ended up at Auschwitz, and did not survive the war.

Belperron diamond & sapphire bangle, sold for $171,575.00 at a Christie's auction in 2012

Belperron diamond and platinum cuff

Belperron ruby and diamond necklace, sold for $340,552.00 at a Christie's auction in 2010

Despite the difficulties in Nazi-dominated Paris, Belperron continued to work, refusing more than a dozen job offers from American jewelry houses in order to keep the Belperron company alive. She joined the French Resistance, and was later decorated as a Knight of the Legion of Honor. Herz's son, Jean, returned from time spent as a prisoner of war and signed on as Suzanne's partner, renaming the business after both of them, and remaining her partner until they parted ways (on very friendly terms) in the 1970s.

Belperron Sapphire set

Suzanne Belperron was elusive, and therefore, the best catch in Paris for those in need of fine jewelry. She did not advertise. There were no fliers on shop windows or ads in the newspaper. Instead, her address was only given out by word of mouth, from one exclusive client to another.

Belperron diamond brooch

When designing for a woman, Belperron not only took multiple, precise measurements, she made notes about the woman's skin tone, the shape of her face, and her lifestyle. There would be several fittings, just as with a seamstress, to ensure that each custom piece was a perfect fit, in every way, for the woman who would wear it.

Belperron diamond brooch

Long after Belperron's death, an apartment was discovered near Montmartre that contained her furniture and books, but most importantly, her archives--including photos, news articles, sketches, models, casts, letters, diaries, and appointments and orders from the late 1930s until the company dissolved in 1974.What a time capsule!

Belperron diamond and sapphire cocktail ring

And yes, the matching earrings; Sold at Christie's for $110,023.00 in 2013

Junk Love Monday: BBBBakelite

We don't collect Bakelite. We just happen to own some items made from it, and occasionally dream of a house full of Bakelite radios and drawer pulls. It's actually pretty easy to find, especially if you pay attention to plastic handled flatware. But finding good, real, quality Bakelite is not as easy. And, unfortunately, it tends to be quite expensive. That doesn't stop us from dreaming, though. So this week, our junk love telescope zooms in on Bakelite treasures that we covet.

Of course, the best Bakelite is in jewelry. Bracelets are pretty easy to find, although some colors are definitely more desirable than others. Pins and necklaces are generally more sought after. Everybody needs a Bakelite sombrero brooch!

AgoObjects on etsy

 Some carved pieces are definitely better than others, but the quality is easy to see. We've all found those Bakelite "dogs" that you have to squint at to pinpoint where the eyes are. But, sometimes, the pieces just sing to you, like this fantastic vintage Halloween bracelet:

craftingfool2003 on etsy

For the black-hearted:

BakeliteArts on etsy

 Or, the Holy Grail of Bakelite jewelry, the cherries:

wasabirose on etsy

Or, for those who love the Bakelite rainbow:

slapmefabulous on etsy

There are also some pretty fantastic Bakelite radios and clocks out there.

vintagebitsblitz on etsy

yesterdayrevival on etsy

We've also come across an electric fan with Bakelite blades:

thelittlebiker on etsy

Buttons and buckles are a great way to get color variety:

FrenchFrouFrou on etsy

Mauibeadworks on etsy

This is a great desk set:

KnickknackFlashback on etsy

Another Holy Grail, this Bakelite and bead purse:

worldmarketproductio on etsy

And, of course, drawer pulls, knobs, and game pieces:

AddVintage on etsy

becaruns on etsy

On the Radar -- Brooch the Subject

Photo from thestyleumbrella.com

There's one trend this fall I'm super excited to talk about.  The brooch is back!  Personally, for me, it never left.  I have always been a wearer, collector, and all-around lover of pins and brooches.  New or old, one at a time or grouped together, they can make quite the statement!

When I worked in product development, I had to go to the Hight Point International Home Furnishings Market every spring and fall.  It was fun to dress up, since normally the office was pretty casual.  My most memorable day was when I  wore my yellow 60s style a-line dress (I think of Doris Day when I wear it), thick black opaque tights, black ballet flats, and five of my enamel flower pins in black, white, gray, and yellow.  I got tons of compliments on those brooches -- even now, when I look at them I think about that day.

Brooches are easy to find and easy to wear.  Oscar de la Renta's Fall 2012 runway was full of his brooches, but you can get the same look from a thrift or antique store.   At the antique mall where we Blackbird girls work, you can find pins from $1 to $2, all the way up to $200.  And Etsy has over 120,000 listings for brooches in the Vintage section alone.

From Iris Jewels on Etsy

You can wear them one at a time, but I think the fun really starts when you pile on the pins.  And the more whimsical, the better.  Vintage pins can have so much personality, whether they are a Jelly Belly brooch, a Victorian tremblant pin, or a bright enamel daisy.  Why not a butterfly brooch nestled in a field of flowers?  Or a mini collection of owl pins?


If you need some inspiration for ideas on how to wear your brooches, I found this awesome video that Nordstrom just released.  It highlights nine different ways to wear your brooch collection.

More about my brooch and pin collection in a future Junk Love post, but I just can't resist giving you a sneak peek!

The Skinny -- Van Dell Jewelry

From Broadwater Rose Jewels

The mysterious world of vintage jewelry is full of twists and turns.  Marks can be hard to read, and company's names reduced to vague initials.  Histories on the jewelry companies are lost or incomplete.  And forget about trying to date a piece or find out more about the jeweler's other collections.

Before I list a piece of jewelry in the Etsy shop, I do research.  I had never heard of Van Dell, but was intrigued when I found a pair of black and white cameo screw back earrings, set in sterling silver.  The mark was clear and prettily done.  But when I went to research the company, it was hard to find anything about them.  So for today's "The Skinny", I'm going to share with all of you the info I have been able to find out about the Van Dell Corporation (which ain't much...).  

It began in Providence, Rhode Island in 1943 (or 1938, depending on your source), with an emphasis on making high quality collections of costume jewelry, as well as sterling silver and gold filled and gold plated pieces.  Van Dell wanted to make designs that imitated fine jewelry, retaining a more delicate feel than a heavy, costume feel. They used rhinestones and simulated gemstones, as well as cultured and faux pearls.  They were also known for their hand carved cameos and ivory pieces.  According to Vintage Jewelry Lane, "Some of their early pieces sold for $65 or more in the 1960s, which was quite expensive for the time."

From The Art Floozy on Etsy

Van Dell is recognizable for their cameos, delicate floral pieces, faux pearls, and carved ivory.  Their ivory jewelry was marked with red and gold foil hang tags.  Rhinestone designs were often originally sold in sets, and are worth more if you can find the entire set or the original box.  The jewelry will be marked Van Dell, and have a stamp stating if it is sterling or gold filled.  Although not a high end designer, Van Dell does have a following, and can sell for a higher range of prices that your average costume jewelry.

From Morning Glory Jewelry

 
 The company was sold to Hallmark in 1970, and in 1998, was bought by the Colibri Company, based in London.   They also own Krementz jewelry, which has a similar design aesthetic. Van Dell jewelry is still being made today.

From our Etsy shop!

 Thanks to Vintage Jewelry Lane for the info!